Bodhgaya has a number of daily blackouts and brownouts. When the lights go out, they’ll usually start with a pulsing when the incandescent bulb fluctuates from its brightest to dimmest setting in a cyclical pattern before completely going out. This time my roommate is left stranded, standing in front of the mirror in the bathroom, razor in hand. A minute later, the huge diesel generator at the front of the hotel automatically whirs to life, and 20 seconds later we magically have electricity, internet and ice cold Mirinda soda. The power returns with a flicker and the generator turns off after a few seconds. With the generator off I can hear the sounds of the Puja festival again as trumpets, drums, bells and other instruments waft their way over from the Bodhi tree.